Belay Device for Beginners: Tube, Assisted Tube or Grigri?
In short: Petzl doesn't make a belay device called the "Rifle". The real choice for beginners is between a classic tube, an assisted-braking tube such as the Edelrid Jul², and a cam-assisted device such as the Petzl Grigri. For climbing gyms, the German Alpine Club (DAV) recommends assisted-braking devices, which covers both assisted tubes and the Grigri. Our recommendation: start with a Jul² or a Grigri, and pick whichever one your belay course teaches with.
Grigri or "Rifle": what's behind the question?
Petzl's current range has no device called the "Rifle". According to Petzl's belay device overview, it offers two families:
- Cam-assisted devices: GRIGRI, GRIGRI+ and NEOX
- Manual braking devices with no assistance: REVERSO and VERSO
So the real question is which type of device suits you. There are three.
The three types of belay device
Tube: dynamic, no braking assistance
A tube such as the Black Diamond ATC or the Petzl Verso brakes only through the friction your brake hand creates. If the brake hand lets go, nothing holds the rope. Tubes are light and cheap, and they let you abseil on two strands. The DAV calls the Munter hitch and the tube the standard devices for multi-pitch climbing, where they "must be intensively taught and trained".
Assisted tube: tube shape with braking assistance
Assisted tubes such as the Edelrid Jul², the Mammut Smart 2.0 and the Climbing Technology Click Up+ handle much like a tube. In a fall, they also pinch the rope against the carabiner. DAV safety research classes them as assisted-braking devices "whose function depends on the position of the brake hand". The assistance only works if you hold the brake hand correctly. The DAV also advises buying an assisted tube as a set with its matching carabiner, so you can't end up with a poor combination.
According to Edelrid, the Jul² is certified to EN 15151-2 and approved for single ropes from 8.9 to 11.0 mm. Edelrid describes it as a high-braking device that assists the belayer with leader falls. It is not a plain tube without braking assistance.
Cam-assisted device (Grigri type)
In the Petzl Grigri, a cam inside the device pinches the rope as soon as it runs through sharply. According to the DAV, this works independently of the brake-hand position. Petzl lists 175 g and single ropes from 8.5 to 11 mm (optimised for 8.9 to 10.5 mm), certified to EN 15151-1. You lower with a handle. Paying out rope and lowering work differently than with a tube and need to be practised on their own.
Important: even with an assisted-braking device, your brake hand always stays on the brake strand. None of these devices does the attentive belaying for you.
Comparison: tube, assisted tube and Grigri
| Device | Type | Rope diameter (manufacturer) | Weight (manufacturer) | Approx. price | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black Diamond ATC | Tube, dynamic | 7.7–11 mm | 60 g | – | Multi-pitch, after training |
| Edelrid Jul² | Assisted tube | 8.9–11.0 mm | – | €35–40 | Gym and crag, tight budget |
| Mammut Smart 2.0 | Assisted tube | 8.7–10.5 mm | 80 g | – | Gym and crag |
| Climbing Technology Click Up+ | Assisted tube | 8.5–11 mm | 110 g | – | Gym and crag |
| Petzl Grigri | Cam-assisted | 8.5–11 mm (optimised 8.9–10.5) | 175 g | €75–95 | Gym, crag, lots of top-roping and projecting |
Prices come from current retailer listings and vary. A dash means we couldn't find a reliable manufacturer figure or a current price.
What does the DAV recommend for beginners in the gym?
The German Alpine Club recommends assisted-braking devices for belaying in sport climbing, both in gyms and at crags. It counts every device with braking assistance, so assisted tubes like the Jul² and cam devices like the Grigri both qualify. According to the DAV, the safety advantage applies "especially to climbing newcomers". It also applies to lighter belayers, to people with little experience of holding falls, and to situations with lots of distraction, like a busy gym.
That makes a classic tube a poor first choice for your first months in the gym. It becomes useful once you start climbing multi-pitch routes.
Selection criteria: which device suits you?
What does your course use?
Learn on the type of device your belay course uses, and stick with it at first. If you switch back and forth between an assisted tube and a Grigri, it's easy to mix up the hand movements under stress, especially when paying out rope and lowering.
Does the device match your rope?
Each device is approved only for a certain rope diameter range. Check the label on the rope and the device's data sheet. If your rope is outside that range, the braking performance isn't guaranteed. The rest of the basic kit is covered in our guide to climbing gear for beginners.
Budget and use
- Tight budget, gym and crag: an assisted tube like the Jul² costs about half as much as a Grigri and still gives you braking assistance. It's our value pick.
- Lots of top-roping, long projecting sessions, frequent lowering: this is where the Grigri has the edge, because its cam locks regardless of the brake-hand position. Your brake hand still stays on the rope.
- Multi-pitch later on: add a tube, such as a Petzl Reverso, which can also belay a second climber. Learn this in a dedicated course.
You'll find more models in our belay devices category.
More important than the device: a course and the partner check
No device makes up for missing training. According to the DAV, using any belay device correctly requires "qualified training and a lot of practice". Before you buy, you should:
- Take a belay course: many climbing gyms and DAV sections run top-rope and lead courses, often with the DAV climbing licence (Kletterschein) exam. You'll learn to take in rope, hold a fall and lower with your device.
- Make the brake-hand principle second nature: your brake hand always wraps the brake strand, with a Grigri too.
- Do a partner check before every climb: the DAV climbing rules list it first. Check each other with eyes and hands: tie-in knot and tie-in point, closed locking carabiner, correctly loaded belay device, harness buckles and a knot in the end of the rope.
A well-fitting harness is part of this. Our guide to buying a climbing harness explains what to look for.
FAQ
Does Petzl make a belay device called the "Rifle"?
No. Petzl's current range has no device with that name. Petzl offers the GRIGRI, GRIGRI+ and NEOX cam-assisted devices and the REVERSO and VERSO manual braking devices.
Do I need a Grigri as a beginner?
Not necessarily. The DAV recommends an assisted-braking device for gyms and crags. An assisted tube like the Edelrid Jul² qualifies just as the Grigri does. What matters is that you learn to use the device safely in a course.
Is the Edelrid Jul² a normal tube?
No. The Jul² is an assisted-braking tube, certified to EN 15151-2 and approved for single ropes from 8.9 to 11.0 mm. Its locking effect depends on you holding the brake hand correctly.
Should I learn to belay with a tube first?
For the gym, the DAV recommends assisted-braking devices because they catch mistakes better, especially for newcomers. Learn the tube later for multi-pitch climbing, ideally in a dedicated course.
Which rope fits which device?
Check the device's data sheet. The Jul² is approved for 8.9 to 11.0 mm and the Grigri for 8.5 to 11 mm. If your rope is outside that range, use a different device.
Bottom line
"Grigri or Rifle" isn't a real choice. For beginners in the gym, what counts is an assisted-braking device rather than a plain tube, as the DAV recommends. On a tight budget, pick the Edelrid Jul² assisted tube. For more comfort when top-roping and projecting, pick the Petzl Grigri. Even more important than the device are a belay course, the brake-hand principle and a partner check before every climb.
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