Buying a Climbing Harness: What to Look For
In short: Fit matters most. The waist belt must sit above your hip bones, and about one hand should fit between the leg loop and your thigh. For beginners we recommend a sit harness certified to EN 12277 type C, with adjustable leg loops and four gear loops, such as the Petzl Corax. Try it on before you buy and, if you can, hang in it in the shop.
Which type of harness do you need?
The EN 12277 standard defines four types. According to Edelrid's summary of EN 12277, they are:
- Type A, full-body harness: goes around the upper body and the thighs.
- Type B, children's full-body harness: like type A, for people up to 40 kg.
- Type C, sit harness: a waist belt with leg loops. This is the standard for gyms and crags.
- Type D, chest harness: only allowed together with a sit harness, never on its own.
For adults climbing in the gym or at the crag, a sit harness (type C) is the right choice. A chest harness is worth adding when there's a risk of the upper body tipping over, for example with children or a heavy rucksack. Small children can use a type B full-body harness.
What matters when you buy?
Fit: the most important point
The DAV puts it plainly in its advice on indoor climbing gear: "The most important thing when buying a harness is the fit." Here's how to check it:
- Waist belt: it sits snugly above your hip bones and can't be pulled down over your pelvis. The buckle should end up mid-range, so you still have room for thicker clothes in winter.
- Leg loops: according to the DAV, "one hand should still fit" between the leg loop and your thigh, "not much more, but not less either".
- Hang in it: many specialist shops have a hanging point. Hang in the harness for a few minutes. If something presses or you tip backwards, the model doesn't suit your build.
- Size chart: every manufacturer measures differently. Compare your waist and thigh measurements with the chart for that specific model.
Adjustable or fixed leg loops?
Adjustable leg loops adapt to your clothing and body shape. They're the safe choice for beginners, especially if you climb indoors and outdoors. Fixed, elasticated leg loops save weight, but they only fit if your thighs fall exactly within the size range.
Gear loops and tie-in points
Four gear loops are standard and enough for the gym and sport climbing. Important: gear loops are not for belaying or tying in. You tie in through the two tie-in points on the waist belt and leg loops, and you belay from the belay loop. Have this shown to you in a course.
Buckles
Many current harnesses have buckles that stay closed once tightened. Older or specialised models may need to be doubled back. Your harness's instructions explain how to close its buckles correctly. The buckles are also part of the partner check before every climb.
Women's or men's harness?
Women's models usually have a different ratio of waist to leg size and a differently shaped waist belt. The label is secondary, though. Pick the harness that fits better when you hang in it.
Three models compared
| Model | Type | Weight (manufacturer) | Leg loops | Gear loops | Approx. price | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Petzl Corax | Sit harness, EN 12277 type C | 470 g (size 1), 520 g (size 2) | adjustable | 4 + accessory loop | around €65 | Beginners, gym, crag, via ferrata |
| Black Diamond Momentum | Sit harness | 350 g | adjustable (slide adjuster) | 4 | around €55 | Beginners on a budget |
| Edelrid Prisma | Sit harness, EN 12277 type C, UIAA 105 | very light (per Edelrid) | not stated by manufacturer | 4 | €65–75 | Ambitious sport climbing |
Prices come from current retailer listings and vary.
Petzl Corax: according to Petzl, a versatile harness for the gym, crag, multi-pitch and via ferrata. It has adjustable leg loops, two rigid front gear loops and two flexible rear ones, and comes in two sizes (waist 65–96 cm and 76–107 cm). It's our pick for beginners because it adjusts well and still works when you move on to rock.
Black Diamond Momentum: a simple all-round sit harness at 350 g. You set the leg loops with a slide adjuster. It's the cheaper alternative to the Corax.
Edelrid Prisma: a very light sport climbing harness with Dyneema gear loops and a red wear indicator in the webbing. It suits more experienced climbers who care more about weight than padding. You'll find more in this class in our climbing harnesses category.
How long does a climbing harness last?
Harnesses are textile protective equipment and age even when unused. Petzl gives textile products a maximum lifetime of ten years from the date of manufacture, not from the date of purchase. With frequent use it can be much shorter. Retire your harness immediately if
- the webbing at the tie-in points or belay loop is fuzzy, melted or cut,
- a wear indicator becomes visible,
- it has come into contact with chemicals such as battery acid,
- you don't know its history, for example with a second-hand harness.
That's why your first harness should be new, not used.
What else do you need?
Besides the harness you need a belay device, a locking carabiner and climbing shoes. Our guide to the belay device for beginners explains which device makes sense. The full list is in climbing gear for beginners. If you're not yet sure whether you want to climb with a rope at all, our comparison of climbing gyms vs. bouldering gyms helps. Many gyms also rent harnesses so you can start without buying.
FAQ
Which standard must a climbing harness meet?
A climbing harness must be certified to EN 12277, and sit harnesses to type C. Many models are also certified to UIAA 105. The marking is on the label inside the harness.
How tight should a climbing harness be?
The waist belt sits firmly above your hip bones and can't be pulled down. According to the DAV, about one hand should fit between the leg loop and your thigh. It's best to check the fit while hanging.
How long does a climbing harness last?
Petzl gives textile products a maximum of ten years from the date of manufacture. If it's damaged, visibly worn, has had contact with chemicals or has an unknown history, retire it immediately.
Do I need a women's harness?
Not necessarily. Women's models are shaped for different waist-to-leg proportions, and many women find them more comfortable. What counts is which harness fits better when you try it on and hang in it.
Can I buy a second-hand harness?
We advise against it. With a used harness you know neither its age nor its history, including falls or chemical contact. Those are exactly the things that decide whether it's still safe.
Bottom line
A well-fitting sit harness certified to EN 12277 type C, with adjustable leg loops and four gear loops, is the best choice for getting started. Try on several models, hang in each one and compare the size charts. Our pick for beginners is the Petzl Corax; on a budget, the Black Diamond Momentum. You'll learn to use it correctly, including tying in and the partner check, in a climbing course at your climbing gym.
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